The True History of French Crêpes and Breton Galettes

There are countless websites out there that talk about the history of crêpes and galettes. Really — a lot!
But when you take a closer look, most of them are simply reworded versions of the Wikipedia page, which unfortunately includes some incorrect or romanticized claims, like the famous story about buckwheat arriving in France with the Crusaders in the 13th century.

In late 2020, five cultural institutions in Brittany created a successful exhibition on the history of crêpes, titled “And You? Are You More Crêpe or Galette?”
That’s what led me to reach out to one of them: the Museum of the Former Abbey of Landévennec, to dig deeper into this rich and complex topic.

Here’s a summary of my conversation, recorded on-site in Finistère, with Guénolé Ridoux, who is in charge of public outreach and exhibitions at the museum.
A big thank-you to him for generously sharing his time and knowledge.

The Museum of the Former Abbey of Landévennec

1,500 Years of History

The Landévennec Abbey Museum was originally an archaeological site, excavated over more than two decades by the CNRS, the Department of Finistère, and the University of Rennes.
This location holds major importance for the history of Brittany. Now transformed into a museum, it showcases artifacts uncovered on-site, forming a collection that reflects the region’s rich historical heritage.

Once a functioning monastery inhabited by monks, Landévennec plays a key role in understanding Brittany’s past.
Though most of the objects found there came from the monastic community, they provide a fascinating window into 1,500 years of daily life in Brittany. This archaeological wealth allows us to explore many dimensions of Breton culture.

13th-Century Galette Pans

Among the most striking discoveries are terracotta galette pans — flat-bottomed circular objects that closely resemble today’s galette pans.
I even had the chance to observe them up close!

These finds were analyzed using modern techniques, including mass spectrometry, to confirm their purpose.
The tests revealed that these pans dated back to the 13th or 14th century, offering invaluable insight into the history of crêpes in Brittany since the late Middle Ages.

The museum also held a temporary exhibition dedicated to the history of Breton crêpes, using these artifacts and other historical sources.
The goal of the exhibition was to educate the public about the evolution and cultural significance of crêpes in the region.

What’s the Difference Between a Crêpe and a Galette?

The distinction between a crêpe and a galette is mainly based on regional and cultural differences within Brittany.
In Upper Brittany, located in the eastern part of the region, the term “galette” is generally used. This area is traditionally linked to the Gallo language, a Romance language closely related to French.
In Lower Brittany, to the west, the word “crêpe” is preferred — a region historically associated with the Breton language.

The culinary traditions also vary between these two areas. In Lower Brittany, crêpes tend to be thinner, and the recipe is more flexible, sometimes including eggs, milk, or a mix of buckwheat and wheat flour.
In Upper Brittany, galettes are typically made with buckwheat flour, salt, and water, and are often thicker. This is reflected in the iconic “galette-saucisse”, a local specialty made with a buckwheat galette wrapped around a sausage.

According to Guénolé Ridoux, the difference between a crêpe and a galette is less about ingredients or thickness, and more about regional vocabulary and tradition.
So, when traveling through Brittany, it’s best to ask for a “galette” in Upper Brittany, and a “crêpe” in Lower Brittany, to respect the local terminology and customs of each area.

Galette Pans Through Three Key Periods

The word “galetière” is a traditional French term used to describe a type of crepe pan or cooking plate specifically designed for making galettes or crêpes.
Since their appearance in Brittany, we can distinguish three major historical periods in their development.

9th Century: The Earliest Galette Pans

The oldest known galetières date back to the 9th century. These early versions appear to be prototypes or precursors of the more refined pans discovered later in Landévennec — which are more frequently found and better preserved.
Some fragments may indeed come from the 9th century, but they don’t fully match the complete form of the later galette pans.

This suggests that other types of pans likely existed even earlier, though they haven’t yet been discovered or formally identified.

11th–16th Century: Large Ceramic Galette Pans

Starting in the 11th century, we see the emergence of large, smooth ceramic galette pans, similar to those unearthed in Landévennec.
These pans, typically made from a distinctive clay native to the Finistère region, were widely used from the 11th to the 16th century.

While most have been found in Finistère, their use spread across Brittany, including around Rennes and Nantes.
One pan was even discovered in England, likely brought back as a souvenir by a traveler.

These objects show a notable regional distribution, and archaeologists pay particular attention to their shape, which helps shed light on historical culinary practices and regional culture.

16th Century: The Rise of Cast Iron

From the 15th and 16th centuries, new types of ceramics appeared — possibly due to the depletion or decline in use of the smooth clay traditionally sourced from the Bigouden region.

This transition marked the introduction of different forms of earthenware, signaling a shift in styles and manufacturing methods.

By the 16th century, iron — and especially cast iron — became the material of choice for making galette pans.
This was a turning point: despite the change in material, cast iron pans retained the same dimensions and functions as their medieval ceramic counterparts.

This continuity in design and use across centuries shows the enduring importance of galette pans in Breton culinary tradition.

The Rozell (Spreader): A Unique Feature of Breton Crêpes

Around the world, many cultures have their own types of flatbreads — such as tortillas in India, the “thousand-hole” crêpe in North Africa, or injera in Ethiopia.
But what sets the Breton crêpe apart is one very unique detail: it’s made on a handle-less cooking surface.

Unlike the typical French method where the batter is spread by tilting the pan using its handle, in Brittany, the lack of a handle requires a different technique.
This is where the rozell, a small wooden rake, comes into play. It’s used to spread the batter evenly across the hot plate.

This technique is specific to Brittany and is used in both Upper and Lower Brittany, regardless of whether the preparation is called a crêpe or a galette.
So, in the end, the defining element of a Breton crêpe is the use of the rozell — a tool that embodies the uniqueness of this regional culinary tradition.

The Spanell (Spatula)

In Upper Brittany, galettes tend to be thicker, which influences the tools used to prepare them.
To flip these heartier galettes, cooks use a spanell — the Breton word for spatula — typically wider and sturdier to handle the thicker texture.

In contrast, in Lower Brittany, where crêpes are much thinner and sometimes very large, spanells are longer and more delicate, designed to gently lift and turn these fragile crêpes.

These tool variations reflect the regional differences in Breton cooking traditions, with each area adapting its utensils to match the style and texture of its crêpes or galettes.

What Size Were Traditional Crêpes?

Around the 13th century, large terracotta galette pans began to appear, with a diameter of about 40 cm — very similar to modern galettières like those made by Krampouz.

It’s worth noting that, in a society far less standardized than ours, a range of sizes existed.
Some galette pans were slightly smaller, others a bit larger than 40 cm.

The first appearance of these large cooking plates likely dates back to the 11th century, even though the oldest discoveries at Landévennec are from the 13th century.
It’s likely that similar pans existed earlier or in other parts of the region.

These findings mark the beginning of a tradition of making and using large-sized galette pans in Brittany.

A Unique Breton Design

These old terracotta galettières were large, circular, and flat-bottomed.
Ceramologists across France have highlighted this distinctive design, which contrasts with flatbreads and cooking tools found in other regions of France and Europe.

Some of the older pans had raised edges, possibly to prevent batter from spilling over — especially since using a rozell becomes more difficult when there’s a rim.

Experimental Archaeology: Recreating the Past

Archaeologists have conducted experiments by recreating ancient galette pans, in order to test and better understand how they were used.

This approach is part of what’s known as experimental archaeology — a discipline where researchers first analyze historical objects to collect data on cooking temperatures and the types of fats used during food preparation.

Then, precise replicas of these ancient pans are created and tested under controlled conditions, where temperature and cooking times are carefully measured.
The goal is twofold: first, to verify the results of the initial analysis, and second, to perform additional tests on the replicas in order to confirm or challenge existing hypotheses.
This rigorous process is typical of protocols used in experimental archaeology.

What Temperature Did Ancient Galette Pans Reach?

Archaeological research has shown that ancient galette pans were used at high temperatures, usually exceeding 200–230°C (392–446°F).
This conclusion is based on the discovery of molecular markers that only form at specific heat levels, indicating regular exposure to intense heat.

These temperatures are very similar to those used today in the cooking of galettes.

Burn marks found on the pans show that they were placed directly over a flame, not in an oven.
At these high temperatures, thin batter cooks properly and releases easily from the terracotta surface without sticking.
However, if the batter is too thick, the bottom tends to burn while the top remains undercooked — a problem that was also observed during the experimental tests.

This suggests that high-heat cooking is better suited for thin crêpes rather than thick galettes.

Why Did Ancient Galette Pans Have Raised Edges?

The presence of raised edges on ancient galette pans doesn’t necessarily mean they were used for thicker batter.
There may be other explanations for this design feature.

For example, modern Ethiopian terracotta galette pans still in use today have similar edges to those found on ancient Breton pans.
Besides helping to contain the batter, the edges may have served two key structural purposes:

1. Terracotta is a fragile material.
   When shaping large clay plates, they must be fired to harden. During this firing process, cracks can form and cause the plate to break.
   The addition of an edge helps to strengthen the structure, reducing the risk of cracking.

2. Exposure to high heat creates thermal stress.
   When a galette pan is placed over direct heat at 200°C or more, internal tension increases, raising the risk of breakage.
   The raised edge acts as reinforcement, helping to stabilize the plate and prevent it from fracturing under thermal pressure.

So, the raised rim likely had more to do with practicality and durability than with the type of batter used.

What Type of Fat Was Used?

Laboratory analyses carried out on ancient galette pans revealed the presence of fat, specifically traces of dairy products heated to high temperatures.
These traces contain distinct molecular markers strongly suggesting the use of butter.

However, it’s important to note that these tests cannot confirm whether butter was the only fat used.
Dairy products tend to mask the molecular signatures of other animal fats in laboratory analyses.

For instance, it’s possible that pork fat (lard) was also used, but due to the dominance of dairy markers, its presence cannot be confirmed.
What is certain, however, is the absence of any plant-based fats in the residues that were tested.

Crêpes as a Substitute for Bread

To understand the role of flour and its importance in the history of crêpes in Brittany, it’s essential to see crêpes in the broader context of daily diet and food access.

Making crêpes was historically an alternative to baking bread — a significant point, since bread requires panifiable wheat flour (rich in gluten) to rise properly, as well as access to a bread oven, which was expensive and often reserved for wealthier households.

Crêpes, on the other hand, required less specific flour and no oven, making them far more accessible, especially for lower-income populations.
They could be easily cooked over the hearth fire using non-bread-making flours, like buckwheat.

This simplicity in preparation, combined with the flexible use of flours, made crêpes a popular staple among the working class, offering an affordable alternative to bread.

From a general anthropological perspective, crêpes can be seen as a basic food, comparable to porridge, and often served as a bread substitute in the diets of the less affluent.

Before Buckwheat: Oats

Bretons have always had to contend with acidic soils, which made it difficult to grow wheat.
Archaeological evidence shows that in earlier periods — especially during the Carolingian era — Bretons cultivated rye and, above all, oats, in greater quantities than in many other regions.

These alternative grains were also not ideal for bread-making. While it is technically possible to make oat bread, it’s not easy.
Oats were more commonly consumed in the form of porridge.
However, it was also possible to make oat crêpes, and 19th-century accounts still mention Bretons preparing crêpes made with oats.

This leads us to believe that the ancient terracotta galette pans found in Brittany may have originally been used to cook non-bread flours that grew well in the region — particularly oats.
That could explain the development of a specific cooking vessel in Brittany, one that was well suited to this local need.

The Arrival of Buckwheat in Brittany

A Plant Present Since the Iron Age

The earliest traces of fossilized buckwheat pollen found by scientists in Brittany date back to the Iron Age, around the first millennium BCE.
It’s possible that buckwheat was first used in gardens, perhaps as a medicinal plant, rather than as a source of flour or an alternative to traditional grains.

Widespread Cultivation in the 13th Century

According to a doctoral thesis by Aurélie Reinbold, which cites tax records from the Rennes region, large-scale, open-field buckwheat cultivation began in the late 13th or early 14th century.

From there, buckwheat farming spread across Brittany throughout the 15th and 16th centuries.
The plant adapted well to the region’s acidic soils and crop rotation systems, making it a practical addition to the existing agricultural practices.

Did the Crusaders Bring Buckwheat to Brittany?

This popular theory is firmly rejected by Alain-Gilles Chaussat, who writes:

"According to popular belief, buckwheat was brought to France by the Crusaders returning from Jerusalem.
This stereotype is reinforced by the name ‘sarrasin’ (Saracen), which evokes an Arab origin.
But this Franco-centric theory doesn’t hold up against a broader European bibliography or a closer look at the different terms used to describe the plant."

He adds:

"The first written mentions of buckwheat in France all date after 1450, more than 150 years after the last Crusade."

Finally:

"The species is completely unknown in regions south of the Mediterranean, including Syria and Persia."

Without going too deep into the topic, I went through all 853 pages of his work to extract a few key insights.

Where Did Buckwheat Actually Come From?

Over a span of more than 30 years, Japanese agricultural geneticist Ohmi Ohnishi studied the origins of buckwheat.
In 1990, he discovered the wild ancestor of today’s cultivated buckwheat in Sichuan Province, China.

How and When Did Buckwheat Reach Brittany?

The route that buckwheat took from Asia to Western Europe remains unclear, but here’s what we know:

• Its initial appearance during the Iron Age is still a mystery. At that time, buckwheat was likely not part of agriculture and was grown outside of any economic system.

• However, it is highly likely that buckwheat was reintroduced to Europe in the 13th century, as a result of interactions with populations of the Mongol Empire, directly connected to the earliest regions of buckwheat cultivation in Asia.

That’s when the plant began to be recognized as a true agricultural crop, cultivated for both human and animal consumption — marking a shift from a marginal plant to a widespread staple.

Why Is It Called “Sarrasin”?

The term likely comes from “Saracens” (a historical term for Arabs or Moors), who were mistakenly believed to have introduced buckwheat to Europe.
This reflects a common trend in medieval Europe: plants were often named after the regions or peoples they were thought to come from.

In addition, during the Middle Ages, Europeans frequently used the term “Saracen” to refer more generally to non-Christians or pagans, a label that may have been applied to the Mongols as well.

A Remarkable Arrival

The arrival and widespread cultivation of buckwheat in Brittany marked a turning point in the making of crêpes.
Once ground into flour, buckwheat is not suitable for bread, as it contains no gluten — meaning the dough doesn’t rise.
However, it’s ideal for porridges and crêpes.

For Breton farmers, the crop was particularly advantageous: it grew quickly and integrated perfectly into the region’s three-year crop rotation system.

Traditionally, key crops like wheat, oats, and barley were grown for market sale, especially to pay taxes.
These grains had high commercial value.
Buckwheat, on the other hand, had limited market demand and was rarely used to pay taxes.
Instead, it became a crop consumed directly by farming families, usually turned into porridge or crêpes.

Buckwheat’s Advantages

Buckwheat gradually replaced oats in much of Breton agriculture due to its ability to adapt to local farming systems.

In Brittany’s often poor soils, farmers traditionally practiced long fallow periods to let the land recover.
After this, a cereal crop would be sown to prepare the soil for the main crop, usually wheat or spelt.

Oats were often used in this "end-of-fallow" phase — but buckwheat offered a key advantage: it grows fast.

Unlike oats, which are sown in the spring, buckwheat could be planted in the fall, using the time typically reserved for soil clearing.
This meant that buckwheat fit seamlessly into the agricultural cycle, without requiring extra time or effort.

It effectively acted as a bonus crop, making it especially attractive to Breton farmers.
It maximized land use and added variety to their crop rotation, all while producing food that could be consumed on the farm.

When Were Crêpes Traditionally Made?

Crêpes — whether made from buckwheat or oats — were a staple food in the daily lives of Bretons, and not necessarily tied to special occasions.
They were often used as a substitute for bread and consumed nearly every day.

In some parts of Brittany, especially in Finistère, there was a tradition of making crêpes on Friday evenings.
This custom, mentioned in early 20th-century accounts, involved drying the crêpes so they could be eaten throughout the following week — often soaked in buttermilk (lait ribot) or added to soup.

Everyday Food and Festive Variations

While crêpes were common in daily life, there were also more festive or “refined” versions.
According to 17th- and 18th-century records, “rich crêpes” (crêpes grasses), likely made with wheat flour, were served in taverns during celebrations or special events.
These crêpes were considered more luxurious and expensive.

City Crêpes vs. Country Crêpes

Whether made with buckwheat or other grains, crêpes played a central role in Breton diets, especially in rural areas.
Historically, bread was the foundation of most meals — especially during the Ancien Régime — usually served with soup or other simple foods.

So when crêpes replaced bread, they became the main element of the meal, especially in lower-income households.

Interestingly, certain communities — such as monks — are known to have eaten crêpes during Lent.
For example, in the 11th century, a monastic rulebook from Fleury Abbey mentions that monks were to eat galettes during this period of abstinence.

Unlike Candlemas (La Chandeleur), where crêpes are associated with celebration and abundance, crêpes during Lent were seen as a simple, humble food, reminiscent of unleavened bread from biblical tradition.

The Invention of the Crêperie

In the 18th Century

In urban areas, crêpe-making adapted well to city life — especially due to the ease of preparing buckwheat flour.
Unlike bread, which required a full oven, crêpes could be made on a simple hearth.
However, in cities, not every home had a fireplace, so crêpes were often bought rather than made at home.

In Quimperlé, for example, historical records show that crêpe vendors — often located in poorer neighborhoods — sold crêpes to-go.
This is evident from post-mortem inventories, which don’t mention any tables in these small shops, suggesting there was no on-site dining.

These small, simple businesses — far more modest than traditional bakeries — offered crêpes as an affordable alternative to bread.

Because the activity required minimal equipment, many women in particular took up crêpe-making as a livelihood.
They could start a small business from home, making crêpes and selling them locally.

As such, these crêpe stalls became a key part of urban food culture and local economies in the 18th century.

In the 19th Century

A crêpe maker named Pogan became well known in Rennes for his specialty: crêpes with eggs.
He played a notable role in the evolution of the crêperie by adding tables for his customers — an innovation likely connected to the sale of alcohol, turning the space into a true dining establishment.
Pogan was also famous for his skill in using two crêpe makers at the same time.

In the 20th Century

In Fougères, a unique culinary tradition developed: workers would bring their own eggs and hand them over to the local crêpière, who would then make personalized crêpes for each of them during their lunch break.

Meanwhile, in Finistère, the covered market halls in Douarnenez offered a similar experience, with crêpes prepared fresh on-site by local crêpe makers and sold to-go.

This tradition lives on today in Breton supermarkets, where you can still find artisan crêpes made on the spot.
Prepared by local craftswomen and craftsmen, these crêpes echo the historic practices of the 18th-century crêpières in Quimperlé, symbolizing a living continuity in the art of Breton crêpe-making.

The Traditional Crêperie Décor

Over time, crêperie restaurants have evolved — notably with the introduction of a distinctive decorative element: the recreation of a traditional Breton interior.
This trend began in the early 20th century, and came to define crêperies with wood-paneled walls, checkered tablecloths, and a warm, homey atmosphere inspired by a typical Breton household.

This concept appears to have been influenced by the Breton community in Paris, who sought to recreate a piece of Brittany in the city.

This evolution occurred within a broader cultural movement in which Brittany was increasingly celebrated, particularly during World’s Fairs and international exhibitions.
In Brest, for example, some crêperies even featured waitstaff in traditional Bigouden costume, helping to promote and share Breton cultural identity.

From the 1920s and 1930s onward, the crêperie gradually became a symbol of Breton identity.
These changes weren’t a break from tradition, but rather a series of additions and enrichments to an already established cultural practice.

Today, crêperies represent not only a culinary experience, but also a living expression of Breton heritage and culture.

The Contemporary Crêperie

What defines the modern crêperie is its innovation and adaptability.
Today, crêperies offer a wide range of recipes and toppings, often incorporating elements of contemporary cuisine.
This evolution highlights the very essence of the crêpe: its ability to adapt.

From the beginning, crêpes have evolved in response to Breton soil, available cooking techniques, and the types of flour on hand — whether oats, barley, buckwheat, or wheat for more refined variations.

The crêpe has thus become a universal dish, found in many countries, yet it remains uniquely versatile, easily adjusting to the different rhythms and realities of daily life.

Its long and rich history makes it more than just a dish — it’s a living part of people’s everyday experience, constantly reshaping itself to fit new tastes, new tools, and new traditions.

At Home: The Crêpe Ovens

In traditional homes — particularly in wealthier farmhouses — crêpes were often prepared in a dedicated space known as the “crêpe oven” (four à crêpes).
This “oven” was typically a large stone-built structure, cube-shaped, with a hearth and two built-in spots for placing galette pans.
It was connected to a smoke ventilation system, and its construction required a significant investment, reflecting just how central crêpes were to daily life.

These crêpe ovens weren’t usually located inside the main house, but rather in an older building or outbuilding, often repurposed after a move or renovation.
This suggests that, when possible, crêpe-making was done in a separate space, apart from the main residence.

In traditional Breton homes, it was common to find two distinct rooms with fireplaces: one for daily life, and another for making crêpes and preparing animal feed.

The "Garage Crêperies" of Today

Even now, some residents of Finistère continue the tradition of making crêpes in basements or garages, especially for family gatherings.
The galette pan is typically set up in these spaces, while the meal itself is served elsewhere — a practice that gave rise to a local tradition affectionately known as “garage crêperies.”

In the mid-20th century, non-professional cooks would convert their garages into Friday night gathering spots, where friends and neighbors would bring their own toppings, and everyone would make crêpes together.

This custom highlights the deep cultural importance of crêpes in Breton life.
The fact that dedicated structures like crêpe ovens were built in rural homes shows that these were not just extensions of existing kitchens, but purpose-built installations.

It illustrates how crêpe-making was prioritized, even over the installation of more common features like a bread oven.
This reflects both practical needs and a cultural choice — where making crêpes wasn't just a task, but a central, celebrated activity, worthy of its own space and tradition.

Watch the full interview in this video: (in French).

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